The most comprehensive and versatile tuning platform for the 7.3L, the Hydra from Power Hungry Performance (PHP). It allows for full custom tuning, shift on the fly tune changing, and what's arguably the most important, you can load tunes to it yourself. All you need is a laptop and the supplied cord (USB-B). No need to send your chip back to the tuner every time you want to change a file. It’s extremely simple to use, but like anything, there are a few common things users struggle with.

The buttons. They do more than just change tunes; they control the display brightness as well. Many have had issues with the buttons not working or going into brightness control mode unintentionally. Almost every time we see this, it's due to improper button usage. All you need to change tunes is a quick press of the button, don't hold it down. If you’re trying to change the brightness, press the up or down button (up to increase brightness, down to decrease it) for 2 seconds or so, and then release. The brightness will have moved in the direction of your choosing. For more clarity, here’s how the Hydra keypad/controller was programmed to respond:

•  A button press of 0 to 500 milliseconds (up to 1/2 Second) = Level change

•  A button press of 500 to 2000 milliseconds (between 1/2 Second and 2 Seconds) = No action

•  A button press of 2000+ milliseconds (2 Seconds or longer) = LED Brightness change

HEX, PCM and Box Codes. These are codes associated with the OE tuning file loaded to your vehicle. It tells us what file you’ve got in your PCM. These codes are different depending on how each truck was built, and where it was designed to be used. For example, if you have an E-Series Van with a automatic trans., you’re going to have a different HEX Code than a Super Duty with an manual. You’ll need to use your HEX Code when ordering custom tunes, or selecting preexisting tune files.

Accessing the HEX Code is simple. First, you’ll need the PCM code. It’s on the side of your PCM on the wiring connector. The PCM is located under the brake master cylinder along the driver's side front fender. The PCM code is marked on the PCM connector, on the outboard side (the side closest to the fender). You do not need to remove the PCM to view the code. A small mirror helps to see it, as it's in a tight spot. You’re looking for a code, three letters and a number, something like this: NVK1

Once you have your PCM code (also known as a Box Code), you’ll need to use the HydraFlash software (download can be found here for PC and here for MacOS APPLE or MacOS INTEL) for your Hydra to find the HEX code. With your PCM code in hand, open HydraFlash and select “Tools”, then open “Box/HEX Conversion”. From there it’s pretty self explanatory. Here’s an example of a HEX code: VJAE1U4

This video is also a huge help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iY06R6X_GE

What if you don’t see your HEX Code when searching for files? There are hundreds of HEX codes in existence. Many of them work for the same tuning files. So instead of listing every single HEX Code, tuners have grouped them together. When you use the HydraFlash software to pull your HEX code, it will give you your vehicle's code, as well as a code that you should use in its place (potentially your vehicles code, but it could be different). This is the grouped together code we’re talking about. It’s in red letters at the top. Again, this video is a huge help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iY06R6X_GE

How do I clean my PCM circuit board before installing the Hydra? You’ll need to access the inside of the PCM to install the Hydra. We won’t go into how to access it as that’s fully gone over in the instructions. What we need to touch on is how to clean the connection. You’re only removing the silicone protective covering. Once it’s gone, from both sides of the board, you’re done. We’ve seen many clean the silver tinning off the connection points. That’s too far. A simple piece of Scotch Brite and a blunt non-metallic tool, like a credit card, are all you should need to clean the silicone off the connections. Now, not all PCM’s will still have this silicone. If yours doesn’t have silicone on it, someone likely already cleaned it, proceed to the next step.

***Disclaimer: The information provided on this blog is for informational purposes only. We share our knowledge and experience, but we are not liable for any damages, injuries, or losses that may occur as a result of using this information. Situations are rarely cut and dry in the automotive world. Your situation will likely be somewhat different than what we describe here.  Use your best judgment and always consult a qualified professional for automotive repairs and modifications. Your safety is your responsibility.